El Rastro

It's getting to be more like winter here all the time. So far, I've spent the day wearing my thickest sweater and huddling under a blanket while gripping a mug of hot instant coffee (mmm...) or, as my digestive system can only take so much caffeine, hot water. There is a radiator of some sort in my room but, being from California, I have no idea how to work it and am afraid that I will melt my tiny plastic dresser (which is, due to space issues, pushed up against the heating device) if I do figure it out. It's also raining outside, for the first time since I arrived, which made it an excellent day to decide to do laundry. I am certain my jeans will take approximately a week and a half to dry hanging outside in the freezing cold rain. There is a dryer on the balcony, but it isn't plugged in and appears to be used for storage.

Aside from my winter woes, life in Spain is lovely as usual. Yesterday (Sunday) I took a ride on the Metro down to the center, where the weekly flea market is held. The market is known to Madrileños as el Rastro - which literally translates as both mark (or stain) and trail, a throwback to the days of yore when the area served as a meat market and the area was seemingly permanently marked by the blood of various animals. I didn't see any evidence of any blood, this is probably because today el Rastro's only victims these days are the tourists (and their unsecured valuables).

The place was crawling with tourists - English, American, German, French, you name it - some of them just begging to have their wallets stolen and then sold back to them. We had to come to the aid of one group of rather unfortunate American girls who couldn't figure out how to use the ATM (they were putting the card in upside down...). There were a good number of Spaniards, though, and the place was absolutely packed. Following the herd, slowly shuffling between the stalls, it was sometimes hard to see the quality wares displayed by each of the vendors - a selection of funny (and not-so-funny) t-shirts, leather jackets and bags, pashminas for 2 euros each, and a large selection of jewelry, among many other things. Apparently el Rastro is also the place to go for all of your electronics-that-fell-off-the-back-of-the-truck needs.

Street vendors aren't all the market has to offer, the streets coming off the central area are home to many interesting stores. Most interestingly, there are dozens of thriving antiques dealers. All the ones I visited yesterday were way out of my price range, obviously, but I did find a shop with a great salvaged ship's wheel and instrument panel (only 3000 euros or so), and some very nice, very expensive (as well as very dilapidated, very reasonably priced) furniture. In any case, I don't think there is much space in my shoebox for any antiques. Fun window shopping, though.

In the end, I was too overwhelmed to actually purchase anything except for a delicious snack - a chocolate-dipped waffle (as in waffle cone). The man selling them promised me I would go crazy over it as I deliberated over which tasty chocolate-dipped delicacy to indulge in and although I am still of sane mind (I think), it was quite tasty. I plan to return next Sunday (provided it doesn't rain), when I've had more time to think about what junk I absolutely cannot live without. I am also hoping to find a less touristy market, and I have heard of a smaller one - el rastrillo - in the north of the city, in case the thick crowds become prohibitive.

The market ends around 2 or 3 p.m., Spanish lunch and siesta time, when the vendors break down their stalls. That doesn't mean the day is over though! In the Spanish tradition, it only means it is time to retire to one of the many bars and cafes in the area for a beer and a snack. Craving something with a little flavor, we made our way to a hole-in-the-wall Cuban place with excellent ropa vieja.

Before heading home we made the short walk up to Plaza Mayor, the historic central plaza in Madrid. Most days, but particularly on Sundays, artists of varying talent display their paintings, drawings, and lithographs, while caricature artists make themselves available to tourists who couldn't find a better way to spend 20 euros. There is also a very specialized market featuring old and collectible stamps and coins - perhaps this is the hobby I've been looking for? Probably not, but it's fun browsing anyway.

I hope everyone is doing well (or as well as can be expected) and is gearing up for the Thanksgiving holiday. I'll update you on my Thanksgiving plans (or lack thereof) in a few days. I can only imagine all of the Christmas decorations, gift offers, music (aka "spirit") that must be bombarding everyone in the states already - can't say I feel like I'm missing much. I'll be back to it soon enough.